How to research parts availability for standards based bikes.
1. Preface
2. Frame Checklist
3. Forks and Headsets
4. Threadless Forks
5. Threaded Type Forks
6. Stems
7. Quill Stems
8. Clamp on Stems
9. Handlebars
10. Bottom Brackets
11. Cranksets
12. Pedals
13. Cassettes
14. Chains
15. Front Deraileurs
16. Friction Shifters versus Indexed
17. Indexed Shifters
18. Rear Derailleurs
19. Brakes
20. Disk Brakes
21. Rim Brakes
22. Wheels
23. Tires
24. Seats and Seatposts
25. Parts Websites
26. Key Interfaces
27. Reference Websites
1. Preface
This document is for the person who wants a bike with standard, generic and available parts. Not specialized parts. This might be a person who intends to replace some parts on their bike. Or a person who intends to build a custom bike. Or the person who wants to research the components provided as part of a new bike.
Each chapter covers one type of component. Once you read that chapter, then you can look in the specific parts databases in the https://StandardBikes.ca website.
It explains the standard ways that bikes fit together. In other words, the interfaces between the main parts. Before you buy a bike, you should have some idea of how easy it will be to buy replacement parts. The ideal bike is one that allows you to substitute numerous models of wheels, cranks, chains, handlebar stems into the same bike over the years. The worst bike is one where these parts are attached in some proprietary or undocumented manner, such that you can't figure out how to maintain it. And neither can your local bike mechanic. What is important is standards.
The use we are focusing on is touring mostly on roads, and commuting. The term "world touring bikes" is useful to zero in on good models. World touring implies readily availble parts, and simplicity of design. Unfortunately what is much more available as a new bike are "gravel bikes or adventure bikes, so you may be forced to adapt one of them to a touring bike. In the past, people adapted certain solid fork mountain bikes to become touring bikes. But this resulted in straight handlebars, whereas now it is more widely recognized that drop bars are more suitable for long tours.
The main thing in maintenance is to get to a point where you know what to look for and what you're looking at. For example, if you know your bottom bracket is a square taper type, then you'll have no trouble finding videos and instructions to take them apart. In a few places, I link to certain videos, to enhance my word description. And I put a few links at the end of the document to useful info.
In getting to know your bike, you might want to have handy a ruler, tape measure, calipers and weigh scale. I'm assuming you have some interest in having a few tools yourself. But for hard jobs, you may still want to do them in conjunction with experienced mechanics at quality bike shops. But you need to know enough to specify what you want.
Structure of Chapters: For any given part, the chapter will cover:
1. Discussion of interface specs (what you need to specify for this type of part
2. How to distinguish between part types (videos)
3. In some cases, a link to a more detailed document (eg: Disk brakes)
4. A summary table showing main interface specs
5. A link to the database table for these parts
2. Frame Checklist
The "frameset" is the heart of a bike. You can individually change wheels, cranks, gears, brakes, and seat, but if you want to change the frame, you have to start over. This chapter deals with the frame features to note. In this discussion I include the forks and headset as part of the frame and together they are called the frameset.
For sizing, the dimensions you want to pay attention to are the distance from the saddle to pedal, and the "reach" which is the distance from seat center to hand position. The saddle to pedal distance can be altered by sliding out the seatpost. The "reach" can be changed by adjusting or swapping the handlebar stem. Only the wheelbase can't be altered.
Here's what to check on a given frame:
The headsets for Quill stems are different from the headsets for clamp on stems. Most new bikes now have threadless steerer tube on the forks, which means they use clamp on stems, not Quill stems. The standard outer diameter of a forks steerer tube is 1 1/8" (28.575mm)
The essence of "fit" is the position of just 3 points you could draw on a piece of paper: (1) the bottom bracket (2) the position of your hands and (3) the center of the seat.
The things that determine the handling are the wheelbase length, chainstay length, bottom bracket drop, fork offset, etc.
In the old days, bike stores stocked a range of bikes, and you just tried out several till you found the size you like. But nowdays many stores don't actually have a stock of bikes. Especially touring bikes. They have gone to a business model where they determine the optimum size by sitting you on a jig called a "fit bike" on which they move the seat and handlebars back and forth till they get a fit. This gives them some X-Y coordinates of key measurements. They then figure out what combination of frames, stems and seatposts will position the bars and seat exactly according to those X-Y measurements. The current charge is something like $100.00 to determine your "fit", which may be deductable if you purchase the bike.
The "fit bike" does not determine anything regarding steering and handling. Handling is determined by things like the wheelbase, the angle of the forks, etc.
A longer wheelbase is desirable for a touring bike because it is more stable and there's more room for panniers. The easiest way to envision a longer frame is to simply lengthen the back triangle. This also makes more room for big tires and fenders. And the riding position is often better if your weight is further back on the frame. The size of wheelbases will vary according to your size of frame. When I measured various bikes, I found it went from 105 to 118 cms. All of my old bikes are about 107 cms. The longest wheelbase I've seen so far was on a full suspension downhill bike which had a wheelbase of 123 cms.
Fenders are essential to minimize the road grit flying up from the front wheel into your drive train. They also keep the dirt off you. Ideally you start with a bike that was designed to have fenders, such as a touring bike. Most fenders are not long enough. It is a handy to extend the front fender with a 10" strip from a Javex bottle, to further reduce road grit. If you do tours with other people, you should extend your rear fender to allow other riders to draft you. This is very common with touring bikes.
Both 26.8 and 27.2 posts are readily available at Bike Doctor.
Seat Tube
Rocky Mountain 26.8
Brodie 27.2
Aluminum Red Norco 27.2
The most common front fork dropout width is 100 mm, both on new bikes and for the past 40 years. However, lately some manufacturers have altered this to be wider, but no new universal standard has evolved. For parts availability, 100mm and 9mm axle diameter is still the best choice.Old road bikes 126 mm
Old touring bikes 126 mm
Modern road bikes 130 mm
Mountain bikes 135 mm
Modern touring 135 mm
Modern Hybrids 135 mm
Some Thru Axle 142 mm
3. Forks and Headsets
Summary: Replacing the entire headset including the crown race on the fork requires special tools and is beyond the scope of this document. Two of the tools are the "headset press" and the "rocket tool. Therefore I would have a shop do that.
But even if you are not about to replace them, it is useful to know about the critical interfaces on a given bicycle.
The forks have three critical interfaces:
1. the stem interface (Steerer tube diameter)
2. The axle interface
3. the brake interface
1. Threaded forks (Quill type stem inserts into inside diameter of fork
2. Threadless forks (stem clamps on)
Up to year 2000 most forks were "threaded" but currently most are "threadless". Each will be dealt with in a separate chapter. (See chapter on Stems) See also section on Headsets.
Axle spacing
Slot Width
For Thru Axle, you need to know the Axle spacing, and the axle diameter and the thread pitch.
Diameter Spacing -------------------------------------------
Rocky Mountain Front 9 100
Rocky Mtn rear 10 135
Surly Trucker front 10 100
Surly Trucker rear 10 135
If you changed forks to a different model, you would probably want the advice from a bike mechanic, to make sure you match the rake, steerer length, brake mounts, and axle to crown distance. Discussion of fork geometry is beyond the scope of this document, our main interest is the dimensions that affect what stems and wheels you can use.
With the unthreaded system, you can't adjust the height unless you had a stem with an adjustable stem angle. Most bikes come with a non-adjustable stem. With that, to adjust the height or reach, you need to change the stem. The threaded forks have a diameter of 1 inch, whereas the unthreaded are typically 1 1/8". Some mountain bikes had 1 1/8.
4. Threadless Forks
This chapter deals with how the "threadless" type forks interface with the stem and with the frame. As you know from previous chapter, threadless forks slide up into the headtube, and then the stem clamps onto the top of the steerer tube. Thus the interface between stem and forks could be called a "clamp" interface. (As opposed to having a quill that slides down inside the fork. With the clamp interface, the key dimension is the outer diameter of the steerer tube. The inner diameter doesn't matter. The length of the steerer tube should more or less match the length of the headtube. But typically spacers collars are used for 1 or 2 cms, to make the bars higher. For example on the Brodie rigid frame mountain bike, there is a shiny spacer several cm long.
The other minor dimension is the "dust cap" bolt that threads downward into the top of the steerer tube. It is screwing into a thin washer like holder inserted into the tube. It is often used as a temporary measure to pull the forks into proper position prior to tighening the main stem clamps.
Steerer
Diameter ------------------------------------- Yellow Brodie 28.6 Standard Steerer 28.6
5. Threaded Type Forks
(Quill Type forks) As mentioned in the general chapter on forks, the threaded type forks are held into the frame by a large nut which threads onto the end of the fork. Actually there are two things that thread onto the steerer tube: first a notched nut, then a large hex nut. That attaches the fork into the frame.
Now we must talk about how the handlebar stem attaches to the steerer tube. Unlike the threadless design, the stem is inserted down INSIDE the steerer tube. That is why it is called a "quill" design. The quill of the stem has a diagional wedge on the bottom end, and when a top bolt is tightened, it pulls the wedge sideways to jam it into the steerer tube. Thus the key dimension is the inside diameter of the steerer tube.
Inside Steerer
Diameter Length -------------------------------------
Rocky Mountain 22.5
Norco 10 speed 22.5
Miyata 1000 22.5
6. Stems
The stem is the thing that connects the fork with the handlebars. There are two basic types:
1. Quill stem (threaded fork on older bikes)
2. Clamp on stem (threadless fork)
To attach to the steering tube of the fork depends on the fork type. There are two fork types: "threaded" and "Unthreaded". See the previous chapter on forks. Threaded forks take a "quill type" stem, and unthreaded forks take clamp-on stems. Glance at the following quick videos if you don't know the difference.
7. Quill Stems
This chapter discusses changing the older quill type stems. The first thing is to get rid of any stem with the old single piece handlebar clamp. Once you've gone thru the process of removing all the brake levers, shifters, grips, and handlebar tape, and converted to a stem with a two piece handlebar clamp, any further experiments are easier.
To find stems, look up "quill type stem" on Amazon. Below are the key dimensions.
I assume if you were buying a new stem, you'd get one where the handlebars bolt on). And may as well be adjustable stem, so you can vary the angle. Look up "Quill Handlebar stems" on Amazon). Typical cost is 19.95 + shipping.
QUILL STEMS
*1 *2 *3 *4 *5
Quill Bar Quill Stem Stem
Price Diam Diam Len Reach Angle --------------------------------------------------------------- Tabitha's old bike 22.2 25.4 150 80 Promax Extra long 22.2 25.4 300 85 0-20 Sunlite Adjustable 19.95 22.2 25.4 180 110 Blue Norco Stem 22.2 25.4 75+75 110 Miyata 1000 22.2 25.4 80+60 120 0 Rocky Mountain 25.2 25.4 40+70 130 10
*1 Quill Diameter: Diameter of the quill which inserts into the fork tube. The quill diameter you need is determined by the internal diameter of your fork steering tube. Various sources give the standard as 22.2 (7/8". My Miyata measures 22.2. Park tools talks about 22.2, 25.4 and 28.6 So I assume that 22.2 is 7/8".
*2 Handlebar diameter: is almost always 25.4 mm (1 inch) on old bikes. When I looked in Amazon, it is rarely specified. Park tools video talks about 22.2, 25.4, 26.0, 31.8 and 35.0, but on commuter bikes I've seen it is 25.4.
*3 Quill length:
Give two numbers: Inserted part first, then visible. Eg: Rocky Mountain is 70+40
(Height) Park calls this "Quill Length", measured from bar center to bottom of the quill. Since the bottom is diagional, I use the midpoint of the diagional. Quill stems typically have "minimum insertion line". Diagrams on google define "Height" as the height from minimum insertion line to center of bar. On my Miyata, the overall quill length is 140mm, with only 60mm above the minimum insertion line, and 80mm below.
*4 Reach:
Park Tools calls this "Stem Length". The distance from the center of the quill to the center of the handlebars. This is the length of how far forward the bars are from the upright. On some models such as Sunlite, it is not given, but you can guess from the picture it is about 80 mm.
*5 Stem Angle:
Park tools defines this as the angle the stem reach drops from the horizontal. This corresponds to an acute angle (<90 degrees) between the quill and the reach. Classic road bikes had an acute angle such that the stem reach ended up horizontal. This requires a drop from a 90 degree angle to compensate for the angle of the fork tube. (perhaps 6 degrees?). In some models, the angle is adjustable. Eg: Sunlite
8. Clamp on Stems
See Stem Database
As explained in the general chapter on stems, clamp on stems go onto threadless forks. To order a new clamp on stem, here are the key dimensions: They refer to the top part of the clamp as the "face plate".
CLAMP ON STEMS
*1 *2 *3 *4 *5
Price ForkD BarD Angle Reach Weight --------------------------------------------------------------------- Oversize Standard 28.6 31.8 Old standard 28.6 25.4 BW Handlebar stem 28.5 25.4 35 105 BW Handlebar Stem 28.5 31.8 35 120 Wake MTB Stem 28.5 25.4 0 90-110 Fomtor 28.5 25.4 7 60 Yellow Brodie 28.5 25.4 35 90 Evo Adjustable 59.00 28.5 25.4 Adj. 105-125 370 Evo E-Tec 34.99 28.5 25.4 35 60-110 161 Zipp Service CSL 179.00 28.5 31.8 4/6/8 70 140
*1 ForkD:
Fork Diameter. Outer diameter of Steerer tube. Often not specified for replacement stems, but I assume it is standard on the type of bike we are talking about (hybrids and old mountain bikes). 1 1/8" (1.125" or 28.5 mm).
*2 BarD
Handlebar diameter in mm. Typically clamp on stems are specified according to the handlebar diameter. Most common is 25.4mm which is 1 inch. New bikes often have "oversize" ones at 31.8. See bike chart.
*3 Angle
Angle in Degrees is a measure of the slope up from the clamp. It can range from 0 to 45 degrees. One that is 45 degrees is going to make your handlebars higher.
*4 Reach
(Reach) Length in mm is the distance from the center of the handlebar to the center of the steerer tube. But this cannot be measured directly, you need to lay the tape measure in a position where you can estimate it.
Method of measuring depends on the handlebar clamp. Eg: On Brodie, if you remove the handlebar clamp, you can then measure from the flat surface to the center of the handlebar stem.
A long one is going to put the handlebars further forward.
*5 Weight
The weight of the stem. Note that the adjustable stems are heavier.
*6 Stack Height "Stack Height" means how much of the steerer tube is covered by the stem. Eg: If the steerer tube sticks up 60 mm, and the stack height of a given stem was 41mm, then you would need spacers for 19mm. It would seem that it is useful to know the steerer tube stack height above the head set. The Zipp Service Course stem gave the stack height of 41mm, and that may be close to a standard. I measured the Yellow Brodie to be 40 and spacers 25 so total stack height would be 65mm..
*7 Clamp Width
9. Handlebars
See also the standard bikes Handlebar Models database.
As has been discussed in types of bikes, you can't easily switch between drop bars and flat bars. The main discussion here is the different shapes and widths of drop bars.
At the start of the curve, Z is still increasing (still getting wider), but by the end of the curve, it is X that is increasing forward. The most common name is "the ramp", or "shoulder area" or the section "behind the brake levers". I referred to this curve as the "reach" because this curve ends up increasing the "reach" you would measure on a sizing bike. The frame and stem are the other big components that talk about "reach".
After the "ramp" area is the big curve called the "hook" which goes downward 180 degrees in the X-Y plane. The bar curves from X to Y, then back to end up in the -X direction. There typically is no straight section between the curve into the reach and the hooks, the first curve transitions immediately into the second curve. In simple bars with no flare, the "hook" curve is entirely in a perpendicular X-Y plane. The brake levers are mounted at the start of the downward curve of the hooks. At the bottom of the 180 degree "hooks" is the final straight section called the "drops". Traditional drops come straight back along an X axis.
See also Drop bar hand positions.
The idea of the really wide bars is for greater control when riding rough surfaces off road. On pavement or smooth gravel I have never seen the need for such wide bars. The wide bars started with mountain bikes, which came with bars that are far wider than you need for city use. These long bars spread you out like a sail in the wind. And they also make it awkward to get your bike into bike racks. On our bikes, we cut all the bars to a shorter length.
- Drop: The vertical distance from the center of the bar top to the center of the deepest part of the bend. A drop of 125mm or less is considered shallow; 125-128mm is medium; more than that is deep. The easiest drop to measure is to put a ruler across the end of the bars, then use a second ruler at the center to get the height. I call that the "End drop". If the bars gradually slope down like the Miyata, then the end drop can be misleading, because where you actually have your hands while able to operate the brakes is higher.
- Hooks: Section of the drop just below/behind the brake-lever that is used during descending and cornering. 180 degree curve. Sometimes called on the drops.
- Ramp: The segment that transitions from the top to the hooks. It is sometimes measured by the steepness of the angle to the point where brake hoods are installed. "Flat ramp"
- Reach: Horizontal distance from the center of the handlebar top to the center of the furthest extension of the bend, where brake hoods are mounted. A reach of less than 80mm is short; 80-85mm is medium; 85mm or more is considered long.
- Width: Most companies measure a bar’s width between the center of each drop. Common sizes are 38, 40, 42, and 44cm. End width is the width across the tips of the bar. On a flared bar like the Miyata, the two widths are 35/40. On the Norco, it is 35/35
- Rise: The amount the bar rises from the clamp.
- compact bars: short distance between stem and hoods
- aero style brake levers
- anatomic handlebar
- on the drops: technically speaking hands away from brakes on the end of the bars
- "in the drops for cornering" usually means "in the hooks"
- "in the hooks"
25.4 both road bikes and mountain bikes
26.0 temporary road bike standard
31.8 current most standard
10. Bottom Brackets
The "bottom bracket" of the frame is the shell that contains the crank axle and bearings. Despite being part of the frame, the term "bottom bracket" often refers to the crank axle and bearings. Or just the bearings, in the case of Shimano Hollowtech.
This chapter is just general stuff about bottom brackets, the two main types are threaded and press fit. These will be dealt with individually in the next two chapters.
The next change was Shimano and others developed "outboard bearing" systems to move the bearings outside the shell. This makes room for larger bearings and also larger diameter spindle. In fact, the spindle can now be hollow. Typical spindle is 24mm. A typical system like this is Shimano Hollowtech. In this system, the crank is only two pieces: the chainside crank and the axle are one piece. There are no pullers or end bolts. The left side crank is held onto the axle by two pinch bolts.
So far all these new systems are designed for the same old standard 68mm threaded frames. But as of 2020, 73mm bottom brackets are also common. See my table of bike models.
11. Cranksets
The "crankset" consists of the front chain rings and pedal arms. In most cases, they are a separate part from the "bottom bracket" which is the axle in the frame. This is called a "three piece" crankset: two cranks and the axle. However recently certain models have come out that combine the bottom bracket and crankset.
However, there are currently various "gravel" bikes being sold that have gone back to only two chainrings. In the old days a common crankset on a road bike had 52 teeth on the largest sprocket, and 40 on the second. (My Norco from the 1980's). These days most gravel bikes have a "compact" crankset which is 50/34. So the second cog is much lower than the old 40 tooth. However nowhere near as low a gear as the triple on the Stockholm, which has 48/36/26. Individual chain rings can be exchanged as long as the "Bolt Circle Diameter" of the crankset is the same. But these days, replacing individual chainrings is often just as expensive as a whole crankset. Even if you are replacing, you are limited by the bolt circle diameter. The old standard BCD was 130mm, and the 34 tooth needs 110mm.
12. Pedals
There are several types of pedals:
Flat Pedals
--> Cage Pedals (toe clip pedals)
Clipless (clip in) pedals
Almost all pedals have a standard thread is 9/16". The left pedal has a left hand thread which removes clockwise, installs counterclockwise.
Most common on standard touring bikes are the toe clip pedals. These typically have a metal or plastic toe clip screwed onto the front. Although the original idea of the metal toe clip was to have a leather strap going over your shoe, the plastic ones are designed simply to locate your foot in the right place. They have an aluminum body and arms and a metal perimeter, often black. This type has two holes on the front of the perimeter that allow mounting the toe clip. Classic design like MKS Sylvan touring pedal needs to be re-greased once a year, if driven in Vancouver winter wet. The old rule of thumb is that if the pedal spins freely, it needs grease. New pedals are smooth but do not spin.
Although the form below says weight 360g/pair, when I weighed just one on my Miyata it weighted 216 grams, so the pair would be 436 grams.
Maintenance:
On our fleet, most of the pedals do not have easy access to the bearings. The perimeter cage at the end prevents direct access to the end of the pedal spindle. Furthermore, many have a smooth black plastic dust cover which don't come out easily. In mine I had to use a screwdriver and hammer to dig into the plastic to get it out. Next problem is that the perimeter cage prevents straight access to the end nut with a socket wrench. I had to remove the perimeter via the 4 little 3mm socket screws. These were difficult to remove. A better design is the MKS Sylvan which has the end cage accessible.
MKS Sylvan Road Pedals Brand: MKS Price: $87.86 New (16) from $87.86 & FREE ShippingClassic road pedal styling with narrow, lightweight alloy body and quill style cage
Toe clip compatible (recommended)
360g pair
Country Of Origin : Japan
13.08 x 9.65 x 6.86 cm; 350 Grams Item model number MK585SYROAD Color Silver Size 9/16 Inch Height 2 inches Length 5.3 inches Weight 340 Grams Width 2.5 inches Material Alloy
To regrease them, the touring pedal has a dust cap on the outside. He then removes the 11 ball bearings on each end and regreases them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdd_704jt8
13. Cassettes
See Cassette Database for list of cassettes.
See the detailed part document titled Cassettes for even more detail.
What is a cassette? It is the cluster of gears on your rear wheel. The term "cassette" refers to the way the cassette slides onto the hub. The original 10 speed bicycles in 1970 up until the 1990s did not have cassettes, they had what was called a "freewheel" which screwed onto the rear hub. My 1986 Miyata 1000 still has this system. These "freewheels" contained not only the cogs but the bearings and ratchet mechanism. (Hence the word "freewheel as opposed to a fixed cog). But in the 1990's Shimano developed a new system called Uniglide whereby the cogs were a separate part. The bearings were now in a core hub which they called the "free hub". Note the term "Free hub" as comared with "free wheel". With uniglide each cog was a separate piece, and you could replace just one cog. But then to improve shifting they developed a system called "Hyperglide" with tiny ramps on each cog to the next cog. these cogs were sold as a matched set, and people replace the whole set. These cog sets are called "cassettes". With the cassette system I've never heard of anybody replacing individual cogs. The cogs are not sold separately, and even if they were, the argument is usually that the whole cassette needs replacement.
Over the years there was a gradual increase in the number of cogs on the back. The original 5 speed freewheel was replaced with 6 speeds. By the time uniglide came out, 6 was the standard. Then the cassettes started having 7 speeds, then 8, 9,10 and even 11! These extra gears were squeezed in first by increasing the "dishing" on the rear wheel (which made it weaker), and then by increasing the width of the dropouts from 126mm to 130mm and finally 135mm. To go from 7 speeds to 8, they made the chain slightly narrower (7.3mm to 7.1mm). But you could still use one of these 7-8 speed chains with any cassette. But to go to 9, and beyond, each time they had to make the chain narrower and the cogs thinner. Above 8 speeds, each number of cogs has a special chain. All this adds expense to the manufacture, and adjustments more fiddlesome. And they wear out faster. Because wear is increasingly a problem with increase in number of speeds, as of 2021, there is now a new High durability LINKGLIDE Drivetrain technology for "long lasting performance". At present this is only available as 10 and 11 speed cassettes and is expensive. So in my opinion a better strategy is to stick with the 8 speed drive trains which are much less expensive.
Fortunately new bikes are still available with 7 and 8 speed cassettes. For example, most of the new bikes at Bike Doctor are 7 and 8 speed, with a few 9 speeds sprinkled in. And the 7 and 8 speed cassettes are widely available from multiple manufacturers, so the parts aren't going to get hard to find. (In fact you can still easily buy old freewheels which is what I have to do with my Miyata!
If buying a new bike, keep in mind that maintenance costs will be substantially less if you have 7 or 8 speeds. As I mentioned, the highest recurring cost of operating a bike are drive train costs. On my current bike, I'm using a $12 KMC chain and a $16 cassette, and they work perfectly.
To eliminate adjustment hassles, use friction shifters rather than indexed shifters. Some index shifters have a friction mode. An indexed shifter is tied to a certain number of cogs, and a certain cog spacing. So a 9 speed shifter won't work on an 8 speed cassette. But friction shifters work on whatever cassette you want. And never need tricky adjustments.
14. Chains
In my discussion of cassettes, I outlined that the chains are different sizes as you increase the number of cogs. For a 7-8 speed cassette, you need a corresponding chain. This chapter goes into the details of chains.
- Multi speed chains from 5 to 8 have inner width of 3/32" (2.38mm)
- Multi speed chains from 9 to 12 speeds have a width of 11/128 = 2.18mm
6,7,8 speed 2.38 mm
9-12 speeds 2.18 mm
From BikeGremlin: Chains for one and multiple speeds differ from each other by the outer width. The more "speeds" a chain is designed for, the thinner the outer plates and shorter the pins are (and they protrude less) – so the outer chain width is smaller (i.e. chain is narrower). Inner width of all the multi speed chains is almost the same – with only single speed chains having a significantly larger inner width.
See https://https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3555/bicycle-drive-chain-dimension-standards/] BikeGremlin Drive Chain standards[/a]
Below is a table summarizing the specs given on the KMC website.
Sprockets Pin Length Weight 116) ---------------------------------------
6,7,8 Speed 7 mm 330g
9 speed 6 mm 272g
10 speed 5 mm 257g
11 speed 5 mm 243g
From the above, you can clearly see that the more sprockets you have, the narrower the chain. A chain for an 11 sprocket cassette is only 5mm wide. Each increase in number of speeds increases the price by 50% or so. And above 8 speed, you can't reuse the master link. So you can't just take off your chain to clean it.
To get the chain page, use google "SRAM Chains" and go to https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/component/chains, then scroll down to the 8 speed, then click on "Specs".
Comparison Table
Model USD Outer plate Inner plate Pin Treatment ------------------------------------------------------------
PC 830 10.00 grey grey Standard
PC 850 14.00 grey grey Chrome Hardened
PC 870 19.00 nickel grey Chrome Hardened
PC 890 33.00 nickel nickel Chrome Hardened
I'm not a lube perfectionist. Mostly I'll just put a bit of lube on the chain, spin it a couple of times, shift gears to spread it around, and then go riding. The crudest lube strategy is to just use regular oil and take your chain off and clean it periodically in solvent. But taking it off is too messy and time consuming. So people look for ways to clean the chain without removing it. This is done using a chain cleaner tool. These have a clear plastic basin into which you put the solvent. Then you push the chain down into it and little brushes remove some of the gunk. (Search MEC.ca for "chain cleaners"). But that is still messy and I only did it a few times.
The final solution is to lubricate with wax, not oil. This is called "dry lube" and comes in a squeeze bottle. In the past year, I did an experiment: I put on a new chain, and used "dry lube" entirely rather than oil. It is a wax based lubricant that doesn't pick up dirt. After a year, there has been zero buildup of black gum, and the chain runs as smooth as with oil. However, I tend to have to relube the chain every 40 km or so. Oil sticks much better, and Betsy went back to oil during the rainy season. But I intend to continue to use the wax lube. However, the inexpensive $12.00 chains I use tend to get cosmetic rust on the outer sideplates if the bike is out in the weather for days. My chain turned rusty looking. But once I applied more lube, it ran as smooth as ever. If I don't like the look of the rust, I could buy a slightly more expensive chain that is zinc plated.
Here is a video where the guy makes his own wax based lubricant from candles, paraffin oil, and Xylene or mineral Turpentine. Oz Do It Yourself I'm not sure I'd go to the trouble, because the little $16 bottle I got at MEC lasted more than a year.
16. Front Deraileurs
For a table of models, see Front Derailleur Database.
Like many other components, deraileur standards have become a jungle. The scope of this chapter is to cover only the types of derailleur that would be replacement parts for standard touring and gravel bikes. It is limited to 7,8,9 speed derailleurs. And to SRAM and Shimano. And round frame tubes.
The article talks about 3 things:
Cable Pull (top, bottom, dual)
Mount Types (Low clamp, High clamp)
Gearing
17. Friction Shifters versus Indexed
The simplest shift system is the friction shift lever. The cable moves exactly as far as you pull the lever and the lever is held in place by friction rather than a ratchet/pawl and spring mechanism. So you learn to pull the cable just far enough to change gears. This system was standard on all bikes up till about 1990 when Shimano introduced their indexed system. In an "indexed" shift system, the cable moves a pre-defined (indexed) distance when you click the lever. To do this it has ratchets and springs. So you don't have to learn to pull the lever the right distance. A friction shifter works with just about any any derailleur/cassette setup. (as long as it has enough "cable pull). Installation of a new deraileur is simple: just hook up the cable to the deraileur, then adjust High and Low stop screws so the chain can't go off either end.
All you need to do is pull the lever till it causes the gear to shift. Experienced riders get used to pulling the cable the correct distance pretty quickly. Friction shift systems rarely wear out, break, go out of adjustment or get gummed up. They can accommodate the widest variety of chain rings and derailleurs. The shifter can be on the down tube or on the bar ends.
However, these days most new bikes come with an indexed shifter. This is supposed to be simpler than having to learn how far to pull the lever. However adjusting an index shift system is much, much harder. And buying a new derailleur is much more complex. The shifter becomes tied to certain characteristics of your derailleur, chainring and cassette. First of all, the shifter must have exactly the same "cable pull" as a given derailleur and chainring expect. Second, the shifter must match the number of chain rings. So you can no longer mix and match when the exact shifter you need is no longer available. The rear shifter must match the number of cogs on your cassette. So you can't upgrade to different cassettes or wheels.
See the following posting which outlines some of the issues you run into when trying to change to a different model of derailleur: Cable Pull Article With friction shifting, all that is irrelevant, you just hook up the cable and get riding.
Fixing Index shifters:
Indexed shifters are complex inside, with springs and ratchets. Most people and bike shops find it more practical to just replace the shifter when it has problems. I haven't yet come across anyone who has successfully rebuilt their shifter. But numerous people including myself who have just replaced a troublesome index shifter.
Adjusting Index shifters for trim:
One of the frustrating things about trying to adjust a front derailleur with index shifting is to get the cable tension exactly right so the chain still shifts reliably and does not rub on the cage when on the extreme cogs of the cassette. This is called "cross chaining". For example, when you shift onto your largest cog on the back the chain will always be at an angle. So it is always very close or sometimes rubbing on the cage. So you fiddle with the cable tension so the cage is in a slightly different position. What often happens is that now it rubs at the other end. Or it doesn't shift correctly on one of the other chainrings.
The root problem is that the concept of index shifting has a nasty contradiction - the optimum position for the cage varies with which cog is in use on the rear, yet an index system by definition is a fixed position system. To get around this contradiction, the derailleur setup becomes a little game of trading off one requirement against the other. Although it may be possible with a perfect system to have it mostly work, there isn't much tolerance for not having it exactly at that sweet spot. You might think that the solution would be to design the derailleur cage so it had a wide enough cage that it never rubs. But the problem with that is then the cage walls are too far to trigger the shift when the index clicks to the next position.
With friction shifting you never have those problems because the position of the cage is totally under control of the rider. If the chain rubs, you quickly adjust it with the lever. This is referred to as "trimming" the derailleur and experienced riders do it all the time without thinking.
Index System Kludges:
In order to allow trimming on an index shift system, some index shifters now have a concept of being able to make additional micro adjustments, half shifts, etc. More complexity. They may as well just give the rider complete control to begin with.
With cableless Bluetooth shift systems, they can deal with the need to trim via special programming. Eg: Whenever in largest cassette on the back, trim the front derailleur.
An Ideal Shift
An ideal shift is for the derailleur to move the chain, then move back slightly to prevent subsequent rubbing. With a friction shift this is no problem, and most people do it automatically. With the cableless shift systems, they also talk about being able to do this. However a regular SIS index shift system has no such cape ability.
How bad is all this in reality? First, most people I know with index systems no longer adjust things themselves. Instead, they take it to a shop. Second, when there is a problem with the shifter itself, most people are forced to replace. Some mechanically minded people try to dis-assemble the shifter, but are often overwhelmed by the springs and ratchets.
Added Points:
- Some bar end shifters can be changed from from friction to indexed mode
- sometimes an index shifter can be used for a lesser number of gears. Eg: an 11 speed model used with 10 cogs
- thumbie mounts
- replacement downtube shifters are still theoretically limited by their "cable pull"
Eg: VeloOrange pulls 50mm
- some high end friction shifters have a ratchet system that uses the spring in the derailleur itself to return the lever, but a ratchet on the upshift. For purposes of "standard bikes" we are not talking about this level of complexity.
18. Indexed Shifters
See Shifter Database
Also Shifter Field Help
In the 1970's on till about 1990, the gear shift mechanism on all derailleur bikes were little levers mounted on the down tube. There were two levers, one for the front chain rings and one for the rear freewheel. The shift cables ran down the outside of the tube to the deraileurs. To shift gears you just reached down and moved the lever quickly forward or back and the gears would shift. This was the simplest system ever developed: short cables and totally independent of how many gears, cable pull, etc
Then in the 1980's or so, some bikes put the shifters on the end of the handlebars. These are called Bar End shifters. The original bar end shifters were also just friction. For some people these were easier to reach. These are most common today on touring bikes.
In the 1990's Shimano developed indexed shifting. They standardized the spacing of the chain rings and cogs, and then built shifters that clicked the cable just the right distance from gear to gear. This system was called "Indexed" shifting.
BarType Indexed Combined ------------------------------------------------- Trigger Flat Indexed no Thumb Flat Both no Twist Flat Indexed no Combo Flat Indexed Yes BarEnd Drop Both no Downtube Drop Friction no STI Drop Indexed Yes
FLAT BAR SHIFTERS
DROP BAR SHIFTERS
For all types of shifter, the grip area diameter of the bars is seldom listed, because all normal drop bars are 23.8mm and all normal flat bars are 22.2 mm.
19. Rear Derailleurs
See Rear Derailleur Database
And the detail document Rear Derailleur Detail
First of all, some spelling. Sheldon Brown says the English way to spell the word is derailer, not the french word derailleur. And increasingly the Youtube videos all refer to it as the "mech" (mechanism). This is based on the term "gear mech". By whatever name, the derailer is the device that pushes the chain off one cog and onto the adjacent cog. The shifter pulls the cable a certain distance and the derailer shifts the chain.
There are roughly two things you need to specify to replace a derailer:
1. How it mounts to the frame
2. The cage length
Speeds?
Derailers are independent of the number of speeds. There is no such thing as a "9 speed" derailer, as opposed to a 10 speed derailer. Although the cogs on 8,9,10,11 speeds cassettes are all spaced differently, the amount the derailer has to move is controlled by the shifter. The derailer just moves however far the shifter pulls the cable.
However, when you look up various derailer models in the Shimano specs, you see that they specify "compatible chain". Eg: RD-T6000 is titled "Shimano Deore Long Cage Rear Derailer 10 Speed for Trekking". However Sheldon Brown is rightfully skeptical of this distinction.
He says: "Within a given brand/style of rear derailer, all "speed numbers" are generally interchangeable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late 1980s."
Mounting:
The mounting system for derailers has become a jungle. On older classic touring bikes, the derailer bolts right onto the frame. But on the new bikes, the derailer mounts onto a separate derailer "hanger" which is non standard for each manufacturer. There is a separate website just to sell these spare hangers. And furthermore, there are two types of mounting: direct mount versus "standard" mount.
The literature on these two mounting systems is quite confused. However, at least one person told me that most touring bikes have standard mount.
Clutches
Some derailers for mountain bikes feature clutch systems to prevent the chain from bouncing when going over rough terrain. However this feature is unnecessary for touring bikes and beyond our scope.
19.9. Brakes
The biggest decision is whether to get a bike with disk brakes or to stick with rim brakes. Disk brakes work better and don't wear through rims. But you have to learn how to adjust them. But some types of rim brakes can also be tricky to adjust. One particular problem is fiddling around with the "toe in" to eliminate squeal. Another problem is to make sure they don't get knocked out of adjustment and rub on the tire. We've had a $60 tire destroyed by rubbing not noticed.
Disk Brakes
- more braking power
- more sophisticated
- work better in rain
(1) How the rotor attaches to the wheel
(2) How the calipers attaches to the frame and fork
I explain each interface below.
The Post Mount system has threaded holes perpendicular to the fork. You just bolt the caliper onto either the fork or the frame.
The Flat mount is also threaded holes. But the holes are in different spacing.
The I.S. mount is just eyelets, not threaded holes. An I.S. mount always requires and adapter to fit whatever caliper you want. The advantage of unthreaded holes is you can't strip them. The Surly trucker has I.S. mounts. IS mounts are unthreaded eyelets 51mm apart that bolts run through parallel with the hub axle. (As opposed to 90 degrees like the post mount). In almost all cases the brake caliper is then bolted to an adapter that has one set of threads for the IS mounts and another 74mm apart for the caliper. For more detail see Disk Brake Standards - Detail
Shimano B01S Resin pads 12.00
Shimano J04C Metal disk pads
Shimano M05 Resin disk
Mechanical are more basic if you were out in the hinterlands and needed repair. Hydraulic are smoother. Fortunately, you can change brake systems on any given bike. A basic set of hydraulic calipers and levers is about $250.00.
I've talked to people that had trouble adjusting their mechanical based disk brakes. It seems the hydraulic type might be easier to adjust and replace brake pads. But maybe harder to overhaul - you may have to bleed the hydraulic lines. On a basic disk brake the pads are about $20, and people who ride mountain bikes regularly replace them every 6 months. It would be interesting to know how often the pads need replacing, and how often the hydraulic lines cause trouble.
21. Rim Brakes
This chapter covers various types of rim brakes, as opposed to Disk brakes. Rim brakes are the traditional brakes.
Here is a quick "identification" video which shows all the variations of cable actuated rim brake callipers: Park Tools Brake Identification video
Center Bolt:
The traditional center bolt mounted brakes found on old ten speeds and modern road racing bikes are nothing but trouble, because they don't have adequate clearance for fenders. They are often hard to adjust.
Both cantilever and V-brakes (linear pull brakes) are mounted by means of two built in pivot points on the frame. You can change from cantilever to v-brakes because the pivot points are the same. However, you'd need to change brake levers because V-Brakes have about twice as much "cable pull" as cantilever. (15mm as compared with 7 mm of pull). The force in the cable is half as much but it moves twice as far. But the brake arms are twice as far from the pivot, so the actual shoe moves with about the same force. And the brake lever force is about the same as it moves through about a 20 degree arc.
Here's how to tell the difference between "direct pull" V brakes and cantilever: With V brakes, the cable pulls horizontally, whereas with cantilever, the cable pulls vertically. With V Brakes, the main cable goes through a 90 degree curved sleeve called the "noodle". There is only one cable and it pulls the two arms directly together. With cantilever brakes the main cable pulls vertically up on a yoke. Below the yoke there are two cables, one for each side. There is probably a bit more friction in the cantilever system, but both are better than the old "center bolt" mounted caliper brakes.
This video shows linear pull V brakes Linear Pull.
Brake Levers:
V-Brake levers move the cable twice as far when you squeeze the lever. So the brake levers are specific for that type of brake. If you've got drop handlebars, you can't just use the standard integrated road brake/shifter levers to actuate V-Brakes. Although there are "long pull" levers for drop bars like Tectro RL520, these expect a separate shifter mechanism. One other solution for using your existing levers is to use a thing called a "travel agent" which is a pulley mechanism that makes the cable on the far side move twice as far.
Cantilever Variations:
There are several sub-types of cantilever brakes. Fortunately, the types are interchangeable, so if you really don't like one type you can buy new brakes. The first type is the "straddle cable" type. With this type, the main cable terminates at a yoke which pulls up on the center of a straddle cable. My Miyata 1000 has this system. More common these days is the "link unit" type. In these, the main cable goes directly thru a junction point and to one of the brake arms. From the junction, a second little cable runs to the other side. The whole assembly is called a "Link unit".
Centering Adjustment:
In many cantilevers, one of the arms has a separate adjustment screw which allows you to balance the springs. When the main cable is released, both arms spring outward, and leave lots of clearance between the shoe and the rim.
Return spring:
The return spring is the spring that returns the brake to it's "out" position when you release the brake lever. You want enough tension that the brake always returns all the way out when you release the lever, so it doesn't tend to drag on the rim. Many cantilevers allow you to vary the overall tension by means of 3 holes into which the return spring can be seated. The top hole gives a lot more return spring tension.
Wheel Removal:
Check how easy it is to unhook the brakes to remove the wheel. On V Brakes you simply pull the two arms together and pop the cable up out of the 90 degree cable guide. Very simple. With the "link unit" cantilevers, you pop the short cable out of it's socket. Only the straddle cable is difficult. For some reason, on my Miyata, the only way to get the wheel out is to remove one of the brake pads and arms. Very cumbersome, and you need to realign everything when you put it back.
Brake shoes:
Brake shoes can be from $5 to $20. It seems that the expensive ones really do work better. I bought a pair of Kool Stop half Salmon brakes and they really do work better than the old cheap ones I had. Most of the reviews on Youtube seem to agree.
Smooth Post versus Threaded Post Shoes:
The brake shoe post is the thing that holds the actual brake shoe. On cantilever brakes, there are two types of brake post: smooth and threaded. The threaded one is adjusted via an allen socket right in the end of the post. The smooth ones are held in place by a cross bolt. I think the threaded ones may be slightly easier to adjust because you can hold the shoe in the correct orientation as you tighten the allen key.
Types of pad
22. Wheels
A wheel is made up of a hub, spokes, and rim. But nowdays the whole wheel is sold as one item. So when buying wheels, you must sort thru the specs to figure out which ones are associated with the rim, the hub. Here is a link to a database of some common wheels:
wheelxLister.asp
CHECKLIST For either a front or rear wheel you need to check the following: For each item, look for the corresponding heading in Wheel Detail.
- Rim Diameter (26" (BSD 559) or 700c (BSD 622)
- Brake Type (Rim or Disk)
- axle type (quick release or thru axle)
- dropout width (usually 100 for front or 135mm for rear)
- valve type
- number of spoke holes
- spoke gauge
- rim width
For a rear wheel, also check:
- freehub length Eg: 8/9/10
Typical Wheel Specs from HLC.bike:
Position Front Wheel Diameter/ISO 26'' / 559 Axle Type QR Hub Spacing 100mm Freehub Body - Wheel Tire Type Clincher Wheel-Brake Comp. Rim Rim Material Aluminum Rim Construction: Double wall Rim Internal Width: 18.4mm Rim inner width range 0-21.9mm (I don't know what that is?) Rim Color Black Hub Model Formula FM-21-QR Rim Drilling 36 Spoke Type Stainless Valve Schrader Rim External Width 24.4mm Depth 16mm Rim Model Alex DM18 Skewers Included Yes
23. Tires
Tires are the one thing that when maintaining a touring bike, you don't want to cut costs. With cassettes and chains, I gladly cut costs, but not tires. Kevlar belted tires to prevent punctures are a must. In the old days, I got so many flats, whereas now I have Schwalbe tires, and have not had a flat in years despite constant riding. On my road bikes, I have 25mm to 32mm tires, and inflate theto 80 PSI. On my mountain bike I have fatter tires, and inflate to 60 PSI. After a week, they tend to lose 20 PSI, so I need to pump them up once every week or two. I have a good floor pump costing $100.
24. Seats and Seatposts
See Seatpost Database
At MEC.ca website, you can see a typical seat post called MEC 350mm Alloy Seat Post. 350mm is the length. That model comes with the following diameters to fit different tube sizes: 25.4, 26.8, 27.0, 27.2, 30.0, 30.9
1. Two bolt system (2 vertical bolts)
1. Rocker clamp (one vertical bolt)
3. Single cross bolt with toothed washer
It's difficult to explain the different types of clamp if you haven't seen them. So I refer you to a couple of high quality videos. In the videos, pay attention to the method of adjusting the seat angle.
25. Parts Websites
PARTS WEBSITES
Below are useful websites for understanding different specs.
26. Key Interfaces
See also Interface Database
Below are the key characteristics of any bike that determine what parts you can interchange. Listed in order of importance.
Dropout BBShell Disk Diam Seat Fork -------------------------------------------------------------
Miyata 1000 126 68 - 27.2
Surly Trucker 135 68 160 28.6
Trek 520
WHEEL INTERFACE
With rim brakes, there are two main types: horizontal pull v-brakes versus vertical pull cantilever brakes. Although you can change between them, you typically also change the brake levers, which may involve the shifters on most hybrids. So you are likely going to stick with the system you have.
28. Reference Websites
What I want in this chapter is a list of useful websites, in which you can really do a study of what is standard. Two ways to verify standards is to (1) Look up replacement parts, and (2) Look at the standards used by manufacturers selling bare frames.
- I specified 26" 559, and then it showed 16 wheels.
- I picked one with a Alex Rims DM-18 rim. I looked up the specs for that rim on the Alexrims website. It is a double wall, with 24mm wide external, and 18 internal. The "18" is probably the model number.